Farm sheds in custom spans, for the machinery, the hay and the stock.

Start with the biggest machine you own, with its attachments on, and add room to walk around it and to open its doors. Then think about what you will own in five years, because a shed is far cheaper to build big than to extend. Height is the one people get wrong: the tallest thing with the front on it sets the door height. Tell us the list and we will size the bays, the span and the height around it.

Work backwards from the bales. Our bays are typically 4 to 6 metres, so work out how many bales sit across a bay and how many bays you need. Every extra metre of wall height is another row on the stack, so going up is cheaper than going out. Leave the front open on the side away from the weather, and leave room for the loader to swing. Tell us how many bales and what shape they are, and we will size the bays around it.

Open front for hay and machinery you drive in and out of daily: cheaper, no doors to open, and good airflow. Enclosed for anything that has to be secure or fully dry. Mixed is common: enclosed bays at one end for the workshop and the good gear, open bays at the other for the machinery, all under one roof.

Open side away from the weather. Across most of Victoria the rain and the cold wind come from the south-west, so an open-front shed usually faces north or east, with its back to the weather. Then think about where the truck stops, where the water runs when it rains, and what you see from the house. If you are not sure, tell us where it is going and we will suggest an orientation with your quote.

Australian BlueScope steel, in COLORBOND® colours, Matt finish included, or Zincalume® finish, on a steel frame engineered to Australian standards for your site. Steel does not rot, warp or burn, termites do not eat it, and it does not need painting.

Everything above the ground: the steel frame engineered for your site, the roof and wall sheeting, gutters, downpipes and flashings in your colour, the roller doors, PA doors and windows you chose, every bolt and bracket, and the engineering drawings and certificate made for your site and your job, with the plans for the permit. The slab or footings and the labour to put it up are separate, and we can refer builders and concreters for both.

Yes. A farm shed is well over the 10 square metre line where Victoria requires a building permit, and on rural land a council planning permit can apply as well. We can assist you through the building permit process. We are not the permit authority, but our permit team deals with councils, title searches and building surveyors every working day, and we bring decades of experience and knowledge to it. If you would rather handle the permit yourself, that is your call.

Almost always, yes. A bushfire attack level affects what the shed is built from and where it sits relative to other buildings, and we design and engineer to it. Tell us the rating if you know it, and if you do not, our permit team will find out as part of the process.

We size the bays to suit stables, and the stall fit-out is yours to choose. Plan ventilation first: windows and an open ridge or vents, because animals and damp air do not mix. A centre aisle with bays each side lets you move between them, and PA doors go where you walk in and out with feed. Keep somewhere dry for the hay and the tack, and a floor that drains. Tell us what animals and how many, and we will lay it out with you.

Engineering and the permit run first, then manufacture, then the delivery team confirms the date with you. A bigger span or an unusual site takes longer than a standard machinery shed.

Yes. We deliver across Victoria and the NSW border region on regular runs, and a large share of our farm sheds go to places with a gate and a long driveway. Check your town on our delivery areas page, or put your address into the quote form and it will tell you straight away. Tell us about access, because a farm shed arrives as long packs on a big truck.

Either. Plenty of farm sheds are put up by their owners, and a farmer with a tractor and a mate is well placed to do it. If you would rather not, we can arrange a registered builder we have worked with for years to take on the whole build, and a concreter for the slab, including ones who work rural. If you are an owner-builder, we can introduce builders and installers we have worked with for years. You engage them directly, so you stay in control.

Not much, which is the point. Keep the gutters clear, hose the dust and any fertiliser or chemical spray off the walls a couple of times a year, keep soil, manure and stored chemicals from sitting against the sheeting, and keep the ground around the base draining away from it. Do that and a steel shed outlasts the machinery in it.

You are dealing with a family business that has been selling sheds in Victoria since 1979, from four showrooms with real people in them. If something is wrong, you call the showroom you bought from and talk to someone who knows the job. That has been the arrangement for 35,000 customers.

Mostly what it is for and how it is engineered. A farm shed is built for machinery, hay, stock and rural storage on a farming property. An industrial shed is built for a business, often larger, with different fire, access and council requirements. If yours is for a business, tell us and we will quote it as one.

It depends on the span, the number of bays, the height, whether it is open or enclosed, the doors, and whether you build it or have it built. A hay shed and an enclosed workshop of the same footprint are very different jobs, which is why every quote is tailored to the job. Tell us what it is for and your tailored quote comes back within one working day, with no obligation.